Walla Walla Spring Release 2009

Yup, it’s here again and what can I say other than the same ol’ reminders... hydrate-hydrate-hydrate...strap on the ol’ feedbag of a breakfast- -with gravy ...designated driver... yada-yada-yada...yakkity smakkity - lather, rinse, repeat...

This year I am only going to remind you of three things:

1.) Review, memorize and apply the poem by Robert Fulghum, All I Really Need to Know I Learned in Kindergarten

2.) Open your mind to wine. Seriously. Don’t be turning your nose up at a member of the tasting room staff when they ask if you would like to try a Chardonnay, Riesling or a pretty pink rosé. Taste it. Who knows? You might even like it. And it's okay for real men to drink rosés. Really.

3.) Have a wonderful time in our valley and make some great memories. There is so much to do this year! And for some ideas, check out the Walla Walla Wine Alliance or with Heather at Walla Walla Wine News.

Cheers!
C~

It’s all your fault, you bunch of Wine Blobbers, you!

Here we go again. Last year it was the Wine Spectator who spoke out against the wine bloggers after the bloggers caught wind of the WS scandal regarding the magazine presenting one of their esteemed "Wine Spectator Award of Excellence!" to a faux restaurant. The scandal was exposed at the American Association of Wine Economist Conference 2008 and later on the AAWE wine blog.

Instead of the magazine explaining their error and mustering up a good defense, they took it to their WS Forums message board and spun the focus towards wine bloggers instead:

"This is the problem with the 'blogosphere'. It's a lazy person's journalism. No one does any real research, but rather they just slap some hyperlinks up and throw a little conjecture at the wall, and presto! you get some hits and traffic..." - James Molesworth, Senior Editor to the Wine Spectator

This year, and not to be outdone by Molesworth, Robert Parker of the Wine Advocate took his turn to speak out against those pesky wine bloggers and he also chose to do it on his eRobertParker.com message board, titled under “What bothers me about Wine Blogs... (and please note how I slapped some hyperlinks up)

“…looking at that Bloggers Conference, it does look like a big and free sloppy kiss and then some from the California wine industry...with much more than minimal hospitality offered...love to see some transparency from the bloggers(how many of them are paying for travel,car rental,hotels and meals?)...or should I say blobbers since they are the source of much of the misinformation, distortion, and egegious falsehoods spread with reckless abandon on the internet…" - Robert Parker, Founder Wine Advocate

Did Robert Parker just call us “blobbers?” That’s a pretty funny name, especially from a guy by the name of - - - Bob.

That’s right boys and girls. The lesson here is: when the crumbling cork gets shoved into your - - umm - - bottle of Chateau Petrus and you can’t finger it out or your worm on your favorite corkscrew gets all bent out of shape or when you catch a nasty case of pantie-scratching 2,4,6-trichloroanisole - - whadda ya do? Take it to your forum and blame the "wine blobbers!" Wine forums are known to hate-hate-hate those pesky self-proclaimed wine critics known as wine bloggers. Your online message board will stand behind you with a mob mentality assisted with the best AOL technology! You will be able to depend on your forum as they show their displeasure with frownie yellow faces holding wine glasses and their own platitudes of wine criticism and falsehoods and reckless abandon and…

But chin up wine blob…err.. bloggers everywhere! We are being recognized and bashed by the best! Sigh - - if only Al Gore would have gotten around to inventing the internet a little earlier, like back in the 1970’s when His Majesty Prince of Pointiness first introduced his vision of how wines should be critiqued, because Bob and his Bitches would have cornered this wine blogging thing and given us all some respectability!

Gosh, I sure hope I get some hits and traffic over this distorted reckless abandon of lazy person's journalism.

Four Wine Questions For: Tom Wark

Welcome to my fifth interview in my 4WQ4 blog feature. This is the first 4WQ4 for 2009 and if you are not familiar, this is a quarterly article where I ask four Q&A’s to a “celebrity” in the wine industry.

When I use the word "celebrity" I am not just referring to those who are making the wine headlines in glossy magazines, but just as important "celebrating" with and for those who are in the background making a difference in the way we think, drink, purchase, and even for a few of us, how we sell wine. If you haven't met Thomas Wark, here is an opportunity for you to find out how he is making a difference and contributing to how we drink and think about wine.

When I first started wine blogging and reading other wine blogs, I came across Fermentation: The Daily Wine Blog owned by Tom Wark. It is one of the most read wine blogs amongst wine consumers, as well as the wine industry. It was from his wine blog, I discovered there are many "wine-sides" to Tom Wark and they all mesh together well. Located in the Sonoma Valley wine region of California, Wark is a 25-year wine marketing and public-relations professional and is the owner of Wark Communications, specializing in solutions to address the unique needs of the wine industry. And as an advocate for wine blogging, Wark addressed the validation and credibility of wine blogs by designing and hosting the American Wine Blog Awards.

And last, but certainly not least, Wark serves as the Executive Director of the Specialty Wine Retailers Association, where he promotes and manages legal and legislative efforts on behalf of wine consumers and wine retailers, opening more states for retailers-to-adult wine consumer shipping.

W5: Right up front Tom, this may be the toughest question of all four, but I have to ask you on behalf of Walla Walla wine lovers everywhere - - what you know about Walla Walla wines and overall the wines from Washington State?

TW: Over the years I've drunk numerous WA state wines. What's always struck me about them, particularly the reds, is their balance. I've come to count on WA Cabs, Merlots and blends to deliver structure. That's important to my palate.

W5: As the Executive Director of the Specialty Wine Retailers Association, could you explain to the readers more about the association regarding what you do and will we ever see a day that wine consumers all over America will have free access to the wines of their choice.

TW: I don't think we'll see a day anytime soon when all Americans in every state have access to the total American wine market. There are simply some states where the culture and traditions make that difficult. However, I do believe that we will, and must, see a liberalization of American wine law if only because the evolution of the wine culture in America has far outlived the usefulness of the traditional state-mandated three-tier distribution system that was created in the 1930s and does not serve consumers or an industry that have both changed drastically since the three-tier system was put in place.

SWRA represents non-winery wine shippers. After the Granholm Supreme Court decision, many states choose to or were forced to allow wine shipping from out-of-state. However, few of them extended shipping rights to retailers. The upshot of this was that while consumers in many states were able to have wine shipped to them from wineries that choose to ship, those same consumers could not get access to hundreds of thousands of wines that were either imported, not shipped by wineries or were older vintages. Many retailers carried these wines and would love to ship them across state lines, but were prohibited from doing so because retailers were not included in the expanded shipping rights that came after the Granholm decision.

This restrictive posture toward retailers resulted from many things including: 1) Retailers not being politically organized, 2) Powerful wholesalers who used that power to excluded retailers from being included in new wine shipping laws, 3) an unwillingness of wineries and retailers to work on behalf of each other's rights, and 4) a general misunderstanding by consumers of the importance of having access to retailer shipping as well as winery shipping. SWRA uses litigation, legislation and education to address the restrictive laws that affect consumer access to wines.

W5: Any memorable incident or the most blatant quote you have heard or witnessed from someone who was willing to compromise truth to protect their own financial interests by opposing wine lovers having free access to the wines of their choice? Any in particular that really deserves to be at the top of list of the Wall of Shame? And if it is a direct quote and you think they are mighty proud of that quote, we can certainly use their name.

TW: I'm particularly fond of this one: "Most Americans were satisfied with the system [the wine distribution system] as it is except for a small, very vocal segment who say they can't get their bottle of 1997 whatever." - Craig Wolf, Wine & Spirit Wholesalers Association, New York Times - January 30, 2008

That said, wholesalers in particular have fought to keep consumers from having access to any wines they don't themselves provide to retailers and restaurants based largely on the notion that direct shipping will lead to minors obtaining wine. Based on this charge they argue that direct shipping should not be allowed at all. Yet you never hear them say that brick and mortar sales of wine should be shut down because minors can get their hands on wine in that manner. The wholesalers' arguments on this issue have been duplicitous, fully incoherent, obtuse and often straight out lies. Yet, they know that lawmakers aren't inclined to take kindly to laws that will "hurt the children". Yet, to-date, no member of law enforcement in any state and no alcohol regulator in any state has said they have seen a problem develop as a result of minors obtaining wine via Internet sales.

W5: Here is what I know about Tom Wark: He has indefatigable energy traveling to state capitals working on behalf of wine consumers so they may have freedom from 21st century prohibition. He is the creator of the American Wine Bloggers Awards (Boo-hiss! I'm jealous because I have never won a AWB) and he has a crush on redheads that give of themselves to save the world from "Parkerization." Any trivia or scandal that my readers or the National Enquirer would want to know more about Thomas Wark?

TW: I've been very lucky in this business because I've have some very good and inspiring mentors including Bill & Sandra McIver of Matanzas Creek Winery, John Hinman of Hinman & Carmichael, and Gracelyn Guyol of Gracelyn Associates. I've always believed that we all do our best work when we have a fire in our belly. The fire in my belly has remained lit for quite some time. Beyond that some folks might find it interesting that I sold Kirby Vacuum cleaners door-to-door and was good at it, I make the best beef jerky in California, I mix a damn good Manhattan, and if I could make a six figure income off blogging I would move to the beach in Mexico and make that living.

Jump Back to the Feast! Spring Forward with Walla Walla Wine!

So, the other day I got a few goose bumps while sitting in my car at the stop light facing north on the corner of First and Main Streets. I was day dreaming that just over 10-days ago I was standing in the middle of the same street, on pavement, under a large tent with chandeliers above me. And even better I was holding a glass of Walla Walla wine and noshing on a crepe. And NO! It wasn't one of those dreams where I was standing there naked in front of everyone, either. This was real! Really! It was a feast! It was big party in a tent! And - - we were all wearing our clothes!

It was the second annual Feast Walla Walla located in the beautiful and historical downtown Walla Walla. Inside the large tent, bringing tourists and locals together, there was an assortment of talented winemakers, chefs and artists showing their best and allowing us a taste or two - - or three… Proceeds from this fabulous event went the Downtown Walla Walla Foundation to continue their hard, and much appreciated, work.

Once we walked into the tent, we were given an etched glass commemorating the event, a plate to hold our "feast" and several tokens. The tokens were used towards nibbles and noshes and glasses of wine. Okay, so what was my favorite nosh? They were all my favorites! I sampled scallops wrapped in duck prosciutto, clam chowder, stuffed mushrooms with crab, crepes, Spanish Manchego cheese, chocolate, sweet potato gnocchi, and - and more! But I gotta tell ya - - the all-time swoon worthy was the crepes stuffed with beef tenderloin and chipotle dressing from T. Maccarone's. And what wine did I drink?

Well, what wine didn't I drink? I sampled wines from Flying Trout Wines, Cadaretta Winery, Va Piano, Sapolil Cellars, Forgeron Cellars, Lowden Hills, Morrison Lane, Mannina Cellars, Spring Valley Vineyards and - and - even more! I even sampled cool and refreshing hard cider from Blue Mountain Cider Company! Whew!

And now, after all of that fine food and glorious wine from Feast Walla Walla Past, I've been resting up the ol' tastebuds because just around the corner is Spring Release Weekend, May 1-3. And once again I will be getting goose bumps thinking about all of the new vintages from fruits of many labors past and the bill o' fare of fine food offerings. And when it is all over, it will seem like a wonderful dream, and thank goodness a dream where I wasn't standing naked in the middle of a street or a winery or...

Woodward Canyon: Revisited

Of course, it is only natural that tourists and locals sometimes get very focused on visiting the newest wineries in town. However, it’s just as important to revisit the “pioneer” wineries who were the first ones on the Walla Walla wine map. After all, they are the “heart” of the Walla Walla wine industry and possibly without them, we wouldn’t have the succession of exciting new wineries in our valley today.

Woodward Canyon is one of those “pioneer” wineries. It got off the ground in 1981, by Rick Small and his wife, Darcey Fugman-Small. From the beginning Rick decided that quality was more important than quantity and to this day Woodward Canyon has remained "humbly" small starting from 1,200 cases to it's current production of around 17,000 cases.

Last Saturday, I revisited Woodward Canyon. I love this tasting room and it's possibly one of my favorites in the valley. No "flash." No "frills." The old 1870's farmhouse with the walk-way through the colorful flower gardens and old trees standing guard, it seems the perfect setting considering their history in the valley. As soon as I walked into the door, I was immediately greeted by Bob, one of the members of their tasting room staff and Shari, in charge of guest services. When it comes to tasting room staff in wineries, I always pay this little game in my head. Would I hire them if I owned a winery? And the answer is: most definitely yes. And adding to the highlights and what I came for:

Woodward Canyon Dry White Riesling - 2007: I have tasted past vintages of their dry Rieslings and they never disappointed. Get in line of the "never disappointed" vintages, because - ding-ding-ding - we have another winner! This is like sipping the juice of pure stone fruit. It's crisp. It's clean - - with just a bite of mineral. If you can leave your mitts off it and give it some proper storage, there is no doubt it will age like a fine old Riesling from Germany.

Woodward Canyon "Artist Series" Cabernet Sauvignon - 2006: Mmmm...a nose of spice and cigar box. A bold wine with a long finish. Up front you really catch the dark berries and cherries and it slowly evolves to flavors of dark cocoa and creamy coffee. What I enjoyed about this red, was just the perfect touch of oak but still allowing all of the fruit to shine through. And besides being an age worthy and a classy Cabernet, you get a "purdy pi'ture" on the bottle, too.

Woodward Canyon Dolcetto - 2007: The timing of this release could not have been any more perfect. With summer entertaining around the corner and victory gardens being planted, this is a red that is going to stand up to those endless tomato dishes. It's light, fruity and spicy! And yet for a red, it's light enough to add a bit of a chill to the bottle to assist in combating the summer heat or even the spiciest bbq sauce.

After my "revisit," Shari and Bob helped me to my car with my purchases and I left with a smile on my face. Revisiting Woodward Canyon was a wonderful way to start my day of wine tasting.

Five Colleges Battle it Out!

No, we aren't talkin' basketball or football. We're talkin' college wineries! Gary Vaynerchuk of Wine Library TV is tasting five wines from five different wine college programs. The players are:

Spartan Cellars at Michigan State University
Chapel Creek Winery at Redlands CC at Tulsa, Oklahoma
Santa Rosa Junior College at California
Northwest Wine Academy at South Seattle Community College
College Cellars of Walla Walla Community College.

Find out who will win! Will California come in first? Will SSCC and WWCC be another battle like the Huskies and the Cougars, pitting each side of the state against each other? Or will Michigan surprise us all and come out the strong number one champ? I know I am keeping my fingers crossed for my alma mater, College Cellars of Walla Walla!

Check it out for yourself:

Robison Ranch Cellars - 2010!

Our valley has long been known for wheat and with the growth of vineyards in the horizon, vineyard expansion and wine production has not been embraced by everyone in our prolific little valley. However, it’s exciting when some of the valley’s wheat ranchers do get behind the wine community and understand it's importance to the livelihood in Walla Walla – creating more jobs and revenue.

Jim Robison, of Robison Ranch, a third-generation, family-owned ranch located in Walla Walla County, is one of those wheat ranchers who is delighted the wine industry has taken root in the Valley. It’s no surprise, especially when Robison Ranch also owned a specialty foods company featuring agriculture products such as pickled vegetables (asparagus, green beans, etc), Walla Walla Sweet Onions and was also one of the nation’s largest producers of shallots. So it seems only natural they would take the next step and open a winery.

Brad Riordan and Jim Robison have teamed together to form Robison Ranch Cellars. Like Jim, Brad also has some strong roots planted. He had the good fortune to have studied under Stan Clarke, former Associate Director at the Center for Enology and Viticulture at WWCC before Stan died in November of 2007. From learning at Stan's "knee," Brad established a small hobby vineyard (1/4 acre 220 plants of Merlot and Syrah) and later in 2005 he produced 60 gallons of "vins de garage" Cabernet Sauvignon from Spofford Station Vineyards. Eventually Jim Robison would sample the 2005 Cabernet and asked Brad if he would be interested expanding his wine hobby out at the Robison Ranch. And do I dare say, "the rest is history" as they became a bonded winery in May, 2008.

During this long winter naturally I was "more than happy" to sample some of their first "garagista-style" wines due to the generosity of Brad and Jim's daughter, Margaret Robison Ely. The Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah were produced with local fruit and showed all the character of Walla Walla terroir. The real surprise was Brad's "Tuscan-blend" of Sangiovese and Cabernet. Hearty, yet with a velvety finish and so generous with flavors and nose. This, no doubt could be Brad's signature wine. One important thing I learned about these wines - - very food friendly.

This last weekend we did some barrel sampling out at the Robison Ranch. First of all, let me say before I get on with descriptions of wines, the hospitality of Jim and Brad was wonderful - a first class barrel sampling! And one more thing - - this ain't no "hobby-tasting" wine. Brad has the talent to understand the fruit and is pulling out their best qualities. With the first crush of 2008, Robison Ranch will produce about 300 cases. During the barrel sampling we were generously treated to tastes from several barrels and some of the real show stoppers were a Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and a rose'.

One of the Cabernet Sauvignons was produced with fruit from Dwelley Jones Vineyards. It was big, complex and showing the characteristics that Walla Walla fruit is known for. The Syrah from Spofford Station had a smoky, bacon-y nose and the flavors of ripe and juicy blueberries. The Bordeaux-style rose' was aromatic, crisp and the notes of Cabernet Franc were dominant. The beautiful dark-pink color was not only striking in the glass, but the essence of strawberry was lively. At first taste, all of us were "oohing and ahhing" and even Jim Robison, with a slight smile and a gleam in his blue eyes, modestly said, "It's not bad."

If you expect to see Robison Ranch Cellars wines in the near future, you're going to have to be patient. Remember the ol' saying: "Anything worth having is worth waiting for."

Robison Ranch Cellars goal is to have their wines out on the market about mid-2010. The red wines will age an average about 18+ months in a deliberate combination of new and old oak. Brad's approach to winemaking is very much like the Robison family's style of doing things: conservative and committed to quality - - or nothing.

The Basel Estate Cellars Experience

Becky Basel, of Basel Estate Cellars, is a woman after my own heart. Like me, Becky believes there are only four major food groups - cabernet sauvignon, cheese, chocolate, and coffee. And a few days ago, Becky and I were able to share the love of the four "C's" together.

If you have never been to Basel Estate Cellars - what's stopping you? Besides tasting their showcase of wines, it is truly an experience. The eighty-seven acres of beautiful surroundings are quite magical. The magic starts from the time you announce yourself at the gate and continues even as you leave the winery grounds down the winding drive. There's a reason why Sunset Magazine named it "The 2005 Wine Destination of the Year."

Becky Basel is a wonderful hostess. Together, we tasted through their selection of wines that Basel Estate Cellars has to offer. There's a lot! The wines were well crafted and the estate wines really showed off the Walla Walla terroir, which I happen to love. Their estate wines were "in-my-face" with that lovely Walla Walla terroir of dark cherries, rich soil and autumn leaves. And last, but not least, it was the blends that really excited my palate.

The Forget-Me-Not - 2007 is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc with 25% Semillon. Aromatic! It was gentle and refined on the tongue with citrus bursting through. Really a wine that I would be serving on a hot day and so well tuned for pairing with foods from light seafood to spicy chicken.

Okay, this is my style of wine - - my style of wine that I want to meet me at the door after a long busy day: Basel Cellars Claret - 2006. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah. Bold with dark cherries, bright with just the right amount of acidity and still leaving a long velvety finish. It's a comforting wine, a great nose and the price is even more comforting at $20 for such an elegant blend! Becky said this wine is a sell-out with every vintage. No doubt!

And speaking of elegant blends. Free-run juice, like the cream off the top, makes the Basel Cellars Estate Merriment - 2005. You definitely notice your palate is in store for a delight as soon as you see the dark red, almost black, wine poured into your glass. It's a "swooner!" The nose is smoky and shows all of those wonderful characteristics that Walla Walla fruit is known for. Dark dried cherries, black brambleberries, and that wonderful cigar box finish. This is definitely a wine to showcase at dinner. Considering the style of the wine and using the best of the estate fruit, it is a great purchase at $48 - under $50! And it is a rich blend that can stand on its own to any wine that is priced well over $50.

What I noticed about the wine prices of Basel Cellars is: in spite of the breathtaking drive up the hill, the grand buildings and the panoramic view (in fact, a view that makes one feel like King or Queen of the mountain), the prices of Basel Cellar's wines are very affordable! One might automatically think at first glance of the large rustic, but elegant facility and magnificent grounds the prices are going to be high-end. Not so. The prices are very comparable with other well crafted wines of the Walla Walla Valley.

The Basel Cellars tasting room is very welcoming with the feel of a ski resort lodge. The patio in front of the tasting room gives the visitors a breathtaking view of the Basel Cellars vineyards, multi-colored foothills, the snow-capped Blue Mountains and much of the estate. During my visit, Becky even queued and unleashed the pet deer to make their entrance - - kidding! Yes, I am kidding, but while we were chatting Becky excitedly pointed out her deer paid us a visit. Sure enough, I looked out towards the vista of vineyards and there were a couple of deer! And very close to the tasting room! It truly was an aesthetic treat that added to all of the sensories of the Basel Cellars experience. And especially a treat for any lucky tasting room visitor who lives in the larger cities to have such an experience.

So if you haven't been had the Basel Estate Cellars experience - - what's stopping you?

Are you one of Robert Parker's Bitches?

Thanks to Josh Hermsmeyer, winemaker/owner of Capozzi Winery - Russian River, CA (also fellow wine blogger, Pinotblogger), for sharing this video. "Robert Parker's Bitch" was written, directed and produced by Tina Caputo for Vineyard & Winery Management Magazine. Josh was also interviewed.

Robert Parker's Bitch from Josh Hermsmeyer on Vimeo.


There is some great food for thought (or should I say, "Wine for thought?") besides various opinions regarding the point system from some of California's finest in the wine industry. My opinion?

I have never been one of Parker's bitches. I know what I enjoy and I have never bought a bottle of wine based solely on points and especially over 90 points. My palate has to like the wine or I won't spend the money. However, I have been known to pimp a wine based on points when I worked in the tasting room environs. And far too many times I have waited on a "cherry picker" whose focus was only the wine that received a 90+ score. And far too many times sold the wine without the customer ever wanting to taste it. So, do they not trust their own taste buds or just looking for a "trophy?"

Just last week a winery owner told me how a customer wasn't satisfied that their highest priced wine was only in the $50 range. This customer was persistent and just knew there was a special and expensive bottle hanging around that he could purchase to show off with. So what do you do in a case like that? Walk out of the room with a $50 bottle, take it outside and rub some dirt on the label, return a few minutes later with the same bottle exclaiming you just went down to the cellar and found a $200 wine to make this customer happy? And for your trouble and frustration you make a sale with a big profit.

I have to laugh everytime I think of these type of "wine lovers." It reminds me of a crazy friend I had that use to yell out the car window at men that drove small 2WD lifted trucks with huge tires - "Sorry about your small penis!" she would yell, thinking they were compensating...

So, are winemakers really making wines for themselves and their followers or are they following a "recipe" to make bigger tannic and more alcoholic wines to get the attention of these gurus who hand out the points? I think we are seeing more of that going on in California than we are in Washington State. Personally, I enjoy the bolder tannic wines out of Walla Walla and always have. Do I prefer them to than a more balanced and less tannic wine? No, not necessarily. And at the same time I have had fellow wine bloggers from the East Coast tell me they do not care for the bolder reds from Washington State at all, while making suggestions that is the only characteristic in wines we are known for.

I do agree with Randy Dunn about the high alcohol in wines. What is the point of drinking a good wine if the alcohol covers up the distinguished flavors of the grape variety? You might as well drink cheap plonk if you're looking for alcohol. And I also agree with Randy it is not any new commercial super yeast that is fermenting these wines to a higher alcohol percentage. It's all about hang time - winemakers achieving these dry high alcoholic wines by picking the grapes at a higher brix.

The last couple of years I have ranted about points and the wine fads these guru of points have led the wine consumer - - more bolder tannic reds and higher alcohol percentages. It has become so outrageous that it makes me wonder about these Pied Piper's palates. Have they become so fatigued over the years and reached such dissatisfaction that their palates can only distinguish wines with overly intense and over saturated characteristics?

And will these points linger and hatch a new generation of Parker Bitches? I don't think so. The new wine crowd seems to have forsaken Parker (or perhaps have never heard of the name) and instead joined the "Vayniac" cult led by Gary Vaynerchuk of Wine Library TV . Vaynerchuk's followers are quite the extreme compared to the old conservative wine industry "norms" and which the same previous "norm" made the wine-world inaccessible to a younger demographic and often to the middle class, as well. As Vaynerchuk's trademark says, "Changing the Wine World."

I also think with the recent economy woes, the larger population of wine consumers will re-think how they purchase wines. I think many wine aficionados, who use to purchase $50 and over bottles, will now look more towards wines that are $25 and under. Also, we have become a nation who is entertaining more at home and spending less money dining out. Even kitchens are being designed around the focus of entertaining and family. We are also looking towards more food friendlier wines. I don't think we have seen so much focus on entertaining at home since the late 1950's when it was fashionable to wear a suit to the neighbor's cocktail party.

Nope, not me. I ain't no Parker Beeyotch.

Wine Blogging Wednesday #55: North vs. South

Many thanks to Rémy Charest of The Wine Case for hosting the 55th Wine Blogging Wednesday. His chosen theme for the month is "North vs. South." We were given the assignment to choose a same style and variety of wine from the north and south and make that comparison. And the north could be the distance from Canada while comparing a wine from Chile. I decided to choose closer to home: Washington State Merlot vs. California Merlot.

The North:
Call it a chip on the shoulder. I call it a reason to brag and toot a horn. Toot! Toot!

Ten years ago I joined an online community – one of the first around and way before Facebook was a glimmer in… This online community is a plethora of “noted authors, programmers, journalists, activists and other creative people” who swap their convictions and banter. The majority of the membership is based out of northern California and boy did I get my ass burnt to a crisp with their hazing flame torch when I wrote I had a fondness for Merlot. Of course I was referring to Merlot from Washington State. Is there any other kind? My taste buds were maligned and insulted. I was asked if I paired Tater Tot casserole and Jello pie with my Merlot? You know, because them there us folk here in War-shington are just a bunch of hicks who dine on Spotted Owl soup. We just taint near nuff sofeesticatum like them there are in Marin County, CA.

And I was told time and time again by some of the members that Merlot was merely a blending grape. Was it my fault that the only Merlots they were familiar with was their own indistinguishable grape that would be hard to define in a blind tasting of early California Merlots? And which later that reputation became the spin for a cranky-ass Hollywood character who ranted and threatened to leave a restaurant if anybody ordered “f ___ing Merlot!

It was obvious to me my fellow online members had never tasted a Washington State Merlot. What’s the old saying, “He who laughs last, laughs best?” What’s that noise? Michel Rolland, influential Bordeaux-based oenologist, laughing all the way to the bank after he produced his fourth sold-out vintage of an intense Merlot from Washington State under the label, "Pedestal" produced right here in little ol’ Walla Walla, WA?

Okay, now that my own cranky-ass rant is done, let me tell you about the most recent Merlot that enhanced a small dinner party. I had recently tasted the Forgeron Cellars Merlot -2003 and knew I needed to serve it to my guest, a student of viticulture and enology to get his opinion. It turns out my guest brought over the exact same Merlot for dinner! The first bottle was so remarkable, we had to open the second bottle and savored it slowly while admiring the complexity of the wine. The nose carried a fragrance of violets, dark cherries and cocoa. Complex with every sip, but the tannins were well balanced. It was dense, with concentrated dark berries and more dark cocoa and spice to follow, while all along leaving a silky mouth feel.

The South:
Phhhttt!!!

Walla Walla Thirsty Pagans Are Going to Hell?

On February 27, I blogged about a new winery in the Walla Walla Valley (see: Thirsty Pagans). Their first release, Communion Red - 2005 is a tasty blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 5% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot. 100% of the fruit is from the Alder Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills.

Since their release, I have opened several bottles. Shared it with friends, family and other wine lovers. Priced at $26 with a handy screw top, it's a very fine Bordeaux-style blend that pairs perfect with an assortment of foods, besides being just a great every day sipper. And those I have shared the bottle of wine with love the label (designed by one of the owner's, Jeanie Inglis-Chowanietz) and always comment with a chuckle!

Yesterday, I received a message from Jeanie at Thirsty Pagans. She informs that the Thirsty Pagans Winery have received their first "hate mail." And actually, it wasn't really mail, instead it was a phone call. Ummm - - would we call this "hate phone?"

Anyways - - the call was from a man, and also calling on behalf of his wife, who resides in Boise, Idaho. The man told Jeanie he was of the Catholic faith and found her wine and winery very offensive. He is making it his mission to inform every wine lover in Boise and Walla Walla not to support the Thirsty Pagans Winery. And last, but not least, told her, "...you have definitely gone to the dark side... and going to rot in hell."

Uh-oh.

Tourism Walla Walla Blogs!

Tourism Walla Walla is a complete website for everything Walla Walla! As a tourist, you will discover countless ways to experience Walla Walla. In fact, even if you're a local you'll discover news, surprises, besides serving as a reminder just how fortunate we are to have all of these treasures so close to us! At Tourism Walla Walla you will discover history and cultural attractions: Main Street, historic homes, Lewis & Clark info, art, live theatre, yummy culinary experiences, and over 100 wineries! If it's the great outdoors you enjoy, some of the popular activities in Walla Walla are golfing, biking, hiking, winter sports and bird watching. Sometimes just enjoying the captivating and charming scenery of the valley and the Blue Mountains is enough! And if you are looking to plan a visit or a meeting - go Tourism Walla Walla.

To assist in giving our visitors, and those who are curious about Walla Walla, a first hand experience Tourism Walla Walla now blogs - Discover Walla Walla! Each week, knowledgeable locals will post their personal experiences and news. You'll find secrets and surprises about favorite places, cultural hap's, cycling, food and even - - wine! Now I wonder what local blogger is blogging about wine? Hmm...who could she be? Oh! Did I say, "she?" (she said with shameless self-promotion...) So check it out!

Rock Star on the Bottling Line

I wish the last time I was on the bottling line, there was a handsome rock star helping me plunge those foil caps on the endless sea of moving wine bottles.

Geoff Tate, lead vocalist of Queensrÿche, the Seattle-based heavy metal band that earned multiple gold and platinum records albums, is now headbanging out some tasty wine! When Tate isn't writing tunes, he has taken on a new role as a winemaker-in-training with winemaker Holly Turner and assistant winemaker, Andy Slusarenko of Three Rivers Winery in Walla Walla.

Last month Three Rivers winery released Tate's first wine,"Insania," a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot, 15% Merlot and 5% Malbec. Check out this video of Tate working the line. And of course, with any rock video, there is great audio.

Thirsty Pagans!

Once upon a time in the valley of Walla Walla there were three very thirsty amigos. Unfortunately, wine was not always within their reach. Rob Chowanietz and Crandall Kyle were raised in ultra-religious environments where alcohol was strictly forbidden. Not necessarily raised in a religious household, but attended church in her youth, Jeanie Inglis-Chowanietz would pass the time away by dreaming of wine coming out of the bathtub faucet.

Rob and Crandall finally discovered the joys of fermented grape juice while waiting tables at the local country club, where they would indulge in half-empty bottles of expensive wine left over from wedding receptions. And Jeanie couldn’t get enough of the real wine her church used during communion. Is the rest history or is history to be made?

Over a decade ago, when the Walla Walla wine industry was in her youth, you could find these three amigos all over the Walla Walla Valley. Rob was being guided by long time friend and mentor John Abbott, former winemaker for Canoe Ridge Vineyard (John is now at Abeja) and later Rob could be found as the cellar master for Woodward Canyon. Jeanie started her wine career in Walla Walla as the manager for Waterbrook Winery’s wine club and as PR director for Cayuse Vineyard. Crandall started his wine career doing books for L’Ecole No. 41 and later for Canoe Ridge Vineyard. And to this day he is still doing the numbers for Dunham Cellars. By day, Jeanie has moved onto her own wine consulting business and Rob is now winemaker for the Corus Estates and Vineyards in Sunnyside, WA. But by night and weekends - - all three of these amigos turn into - - Thirsty Pagans!

What started as a garage wine (isn’t that the way with most thirsty pagans - - hiding in garages?) is now being released to the public! Shriek! Gasp! Hide the children! Hold me mommy! Thirsty Pagan’s first release, Communion Red - 2005 is a fine blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 5% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot. All of the fruit for this rich blend is from the Alder Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills with the vineyard overlooking the Columbia River. With the help of Mother Nature, Rob is thoroughly involved from vine to the wine. But have no fear o' righteous ones, as the Thirsty Pagans do not have any plans to take over the world. The wine rests 22-months on 100% French oak and then another 12-months in the bottle. Small lots and producing only 250 cases annually makes it a no-brainer for these Thirsty Pagans to implement a screw cap, while leaving the risk of faulty corks behind them.

And now as we are near the end of our tale, how does Communion Red taste? Holy alter boy! This ain’t yo’ typical watered down fermented grape juice! The color is red and rich as the color of - - well - - Red Cross bag of blood! A nose of cherries, sage, and rock welcomes the nose followed by flavors of dark ripe cherries, brown sugar and concentrated dried cranberries. Spicy notes, yet smooth tannins satisfy the tongue while leaving just an edge of the ol’ smoky cigar box.

So, open your mind and take a walk to the "other "side. The other side holds the promise of a great wine for a great price of $26 a bottle - - so get into the holy habit!

National Drink Wine Day - February 18

According to the American Food Holiday website today is National Drink Wine Day!

It stands to reason that we have a national day for wine. I mean, what or who doesn't have a day notched on the calendar just for themselves. Unlike Valentine's Day, Bosses Day, etc there are no Hallmark greeting cards that we have to get sucked into buying to show our appreciation - - at least not yet. And while this national "holiday" was more than likely done in the spirit of other randomly assigned "holidays" desiginated by some low-level politicians. You know the kind - - done in an effort to appease "influential" special interest groups? And if in fact this is one of those "holidays," finally they have designated one that I can wrap my mind (and lips) around.

And how does one celebrate National Drink Wine Day? Ummm - - if you have to ask, then perhaps you should forget it and hold out another year for National Milk Day on January 11.

No Grapes Were Harmed: Bottle Shock!

Almost a year after I interviewed actor Hal B. Klein, who played Bottle Shock's scruffy cellar rat "Shenky," I finally had an opportunity to see the movie. It pleases me to say if I am asked, "Which Hollywood wine movie did you prefer, Bottle Shock or Sideways?" My answer will be Bottle Shock. And let me explain why.

It's not that I didn't enjoy the movie, Sideways because I did. But the most important reason why I preferred Bottle Shock over Sideways was:

No grapes were harmed during the making of this movie.

Unlike the movie Sideways, Bottle Shock will not alter much of the buying habits of wine consumers, especially the buying habits of the wine newbie. This time the wine consumers will not be overlooking well made fine Merlots and turning towards cheap high volumed produced Pinot Noirs - not understanding that all Merlots and all Pinot Noirs are not created equal. Hopefully, the movie Bottle Shock will dance upon the tiny heads that are tattoed with "ABC" (Anything But Chardonnay) and those who hiss from their lips, "We only drink redsss" will open their minds to giving great American made Chardonnays a second chance.

For the most part, we are seeing American winemakers leaving behind the trends of diacetyl enriched butter bombs and forest-filled oak monsters in their Chardonnays. At least from my experience, I am tasting more crisp, fruit-forward and food friendly Chardonnays from the state of Washington, especially from the Walla Walla Valley, than ever before. And frankly, in spite of the French losing out in the 1976 Judgement of Paris with their Batard Montrachet and Meursault-Charmes, it is my opinion that the well balanced and harmonious Chardonnays coming out of Washington State are very much influenced by our own "French Touch - the growing number of French-born and trained winemakers who have made the state of Washington their home. And just as important, the quality of fruit they are selecting to be used in their craft.

Bottle Shock is a charming fictionalized version that chronicles the real events leading up to the famous Judgment of Paris, unlike the 100% fiction Sideways. The focus is on the non-fictional characters, Jim and Bo Barrett, the real father and son team who owned the winning bottle of wine from Chateau Montelena in California. If you're a bona-fide swirling, sniffing wine geek and haven't seen the movie, don't miss it.

Oh - - and the soundtrack wasn't bad either.

Walla Walla Syrah is Kicking Butt!

In recent news, Walla Walla may be collecting a boneyard of blood, sweat, tears and old menus from some of the valley restaurants, but it's the Syrahs of Walla Walla that are still alive and kicking! And in spite of this dragging economy, kudos to the Wall Street Journal and their article, Gorgeous Giants of the Northwest for recognizing some of the best Syrahs of Washington state, and especially those from Walla Walla.

The group at Wall Street Journal tasted the Syrahs in blind flights over several nights and were, "blown away." And here's what they had to say:

"When these wines got it right, they were intense experiences, with purple-black color; massive, tightly wound fruit; hints of all kinds of herbs; great acidity; a dark core of fruit that, more than once, made us think of crushed coal; and a genuine sense of excitement."

We salute you, you bad boys of Syrah - Dunham Cellars, Gramercy Cellars, K-Vintners, L'Ecole No. 41 and Reininger. And last but not least, a big salute to you growers of massive, inky, powerful, and slap-your-face fruit: Morrison Lane and Seven Hills Vineyard. Because without the fruit, we'd be just - - mediocre - - ehh.

So, step aside California Zinfandel and bow down. Washington Syrah is here!

It's cold in Walla Walla, but it's hot at Bergevin Lane Vineyards!

The melodic name, Bergevin Lane flows off the tongue as easy as their wines flow on the tongue. It was a perfect name for a perfect partnership when Annette Bergevin and Amber Lane opened their new adventure, along with Annette’s father Gary Bergevin, in 2001. Winemaker and Denmark native, Steffan Jorgensen later joined their winery team.

Good news travels fast and when Amber told me about their Bergevin Lane Vineyards "Oui Deux" Syrah - 2005 winning "Best in Class" in Syrah/Shiraz in the $25.00 to $34.99 category and the Bergevin Lane Alder Ridge Cabernet-2004 winning a gold medal in the "Cabernet Sauvignon - $25.00 to $34.99 category at the 2009 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, I knew I had to stop what I was doing and show them some love! And it just doesn't stop! Wine & Spirits Magazine recognized Bergevin Lane Vineyards Princess Walla Walla Syrah - 2006, as "One of the Year's Best Syrahs" in the Feb. 2009 issue and also recognized them with 93 points. Huzzah!

Two of the many things I love about their wines: they are serious wines with serious Walla Walla quality and second, their labels are often playful - such as the Calico Red and the Calico White blends with an outline of a kitty-cat on the labels. There’s also the Princess Syrah, and the "Fruit Bomb" with an explosive looking cherry on the front. And it doesn’t stop with their front label, as you may just find a back label on one of their wines signed, "XO - The Girls."

This icy cold and snowy winter in Walla Walla has slowed down some of Amber and Annette’s daily routines and they even had to post-pone their bottling of the 2007 Calico Red. But in spite of the cold - no matter. You sure can't tell it's been cold by the awards and recognition Annette, Amber, Steffan and Gary have been receiving! Which goes to show, no matter how cold it is in Walla Walla, the wine women (and men) of Bergevin Lane Vineyards are HOT!

Be sure and check out Annette's blog at http://bergevinlane.blogspot.com/

Wine Consumers Fight Illinois Wine Laws

Can wine consumers go head to head with the government for their right to access wines from out-of-state wine retailers, meaning privately owned out-of-state wine stores, Internet wine stores, wine auction houses and non-winery wine clubs? We'll find out!

Tom Wark, wine colleague, fellow wine blogger and Executive Director of the Specialty Wine Retailers Association keeps me in touch regarding the on-going wine shipping debate. Tom's organization, the Specialty Wine Retailers Association is a national group that advocates fair, non-discriminatory and well-regulated direct shipment of wine. Even in spite of the 2005 Granholm v. Heald Supreme Court decision to make state wine laws fair for in-state and out-of-state wine retail shippers, there still remains very powerful and deep pocketed forces that are working hard (and "donating" hard) to prevent wine consumers from obtaining the wines they desire to add to their wine cellars and personal wine palate portfolios.

With the recent arrest and corruption charges of Illinois State Governor Rod Blagojevich, I have to admit, the first thing that came to my mind, upon hearing the news of the Blagojevich's pay-to-play politics, "How much cash did the Beatle-bobbed 'Gov' pocket from the Illinois alcohol wholesalers just before he stripped Illinois consumer's right to purchase wine from out-of-state?"

So, was I being judgemental in my thoughts regarding this fine public servant? Hmmm - I'll let you decide - -

Thanks to Tom Wark's tireless and dedicated sleuthing, this is what he discovered: Since 2002, Illinois alcohol wholesalers contributed $563,000 to Governor Blagojevich’s campaigns. In October 2007, Governor Blagojevich signed into law the anti-consumer, wholesaler-protecting bill (HB 429) that forced Illinois consumers to purchase their wines only from Illinois in-state wholesaler-serviced wine stores and he protected the profits of a small group of politically connected alcohol wholesalers. Also, since 2002 the Associated Beer Distributors of Illinois have donated over $96,000 to Governor Blagojevich’s campaigns. And on July 10, 2008, Governor Blagojevich proclaimed "Beer Distributor Day" in Illinois.

And here's the rub: for 15 years, between 1992-2008, Illinois wine consumers have been able to legally purchase and have most wines shipped to them from out-of-state retailers and out-of-state wineries. And now, Governor Blagojevich just stripped them of their access to buy wines from out-of state.

However, I am pleased to announce that the Illinois wine consumers are fighting back! They have recently found the Illinois Wine Consumer Coalition, because during the negotiations that led to this new law, no consumers were consulted. We haven't seen this kind of control since Prohibition!

So you may ask, "So Catie, why do we care about the what the wine consumer of Illinois is drinking?" You should care and it can get personal. Your Uncle Alberto in Peoria will never get that bottle of Walla Walla wine you've been raving about and wanted to send to him for Christmas. My good friend (true example) and wine aficionado Julie from Illinois (aka "Jules D'Lago the Toast of Chicago") made a couple of visits to Walla Walla to taste the wines and had several cases shipped home. She's also been a member of various wine clubs and now all of her wine shipments have been stopped!

Limited access of wines can also effect jobs, revenue and taxes. And why should just the local wine consumer's from Walla Walla and the State of Washington be the only ones to taste and enjoy what Walla Walla and the State of Washington are so proud of and becoming recognized for around the wine world? Wineries and wine retailers cannot exist just from local revenue only. Why can't we share our glorious wealth of wines? But most important, everyone in the United States should experience free trade, consumer rights, free American markets and clean government. Amen!

For more information on the wine shipping laws please also contact: Free The Grapes to ensure consumer choice in fine wine.

Walla Walla Winemaker Dies

Patrick "Mike" Paul, one of the Walla Walla Valley's pioneer winemakers, died at his home Friday, January 19 after an illness. He was 58 years old.

Paul and his wife, Teresa Paul found Patrick M. Paul Vineyards in 1988, at School Avenue in Walla Walla. He was one of Walla Walla's first wine producers, which began with his first planting of Cabernet Franc in 1984. Patrick M. Paul Vineyards is considered a "boutique winery" making small lots of premium handcrafted Bordeaux-style reds and late harvest white wines. Paul was a member of the Walla Walla Wine Alliance.