Thursday, August 11, 2011

Walla Walla Wine Brought to You Today by the Letter "T"

We didn't plan it that way, it just happened.

Friend and wine colleague, Joan Corsi of Vinum Distributing visited Walla Walla on Sunday. It was a day off for both of us, and looking for something to do, we decided to check out some wineries Joan was not familiar with. It was going to be a day of leisure for the both of us and not business. Now, a few wineries weren't opened on Sunday and we were had limited time (just in case a few of "youse guys" corner me and wonder why we didn't visit you). Our first stop was;

Tero Estates/Flying Trout: Not only does Tero Estates/Flying Trout have a winery and vineyards in the valley, but they also have a tasting room in downtown Walla Walla located at the corner of the Marcus Whitman Hotel at Second and Rose. We visited with Michelle Fletcher Hunt, super-pouring-assistant-extraordinaire and we could not have had better timing as co-owner-winemaker-vineyard-dude, Doug Roskelley was there, as well. (Note: the RO in ROskelley is the RO in TeRO).

Tero Estates Winery is located at Windrow Vineyard. They source as much of their fruit as possible from their estate. Windrow is a rolling 32 acre (25 acres are planted in vines) picturesque property surrounded with an amazing view of the foothills and other vineyards. Windrow is part of the first commercial vineyard planted in the Walla Walla Valley AVA.

Michelle poured us through a magical assortment of luscious deep reds: Flying Trout Malbec and Flying Trout Lake Blend. Tero Estate Cabernet, Tero ST (Super Tuscan), including some new releases, Tero Estates Herb's Block - Windrow Vineyard Merlot, and Tero Estates Windrow Vineyard Cabernet Franc. All beautiful and I could not decide my favorite.

Trust Cellars: This was the first visit for me since Steve and Lori Brooks left their old facility south of Walla Walla and moved to their new digs at the airport. Their new winery is a very comfortable space painted in a warm tone of peach and accented with still life paintings of fruit.

The charming Mr. Brooks was there to pour his repertoire of wines while he and I also caught up on news, quips and colorful stories. (A few weeks earlier, Steve, Sean Sullivan of the Washington Wine Report and I gathered for drinks one evening. The three of us caught up on news, quips and colorful stories before we were "kicked" out of the bar - long story - bartender wanted to close early - had a hot date- my glass of water was practically whisked from my hand while I was drinking. Thank goodness they let me finish my glass of bubbly. So Sunday was a continuation ... and of course every tidbit I learn is off the record - ahem.)

Steve poured for Joan and I the following: 2010 Riesling, 2010 Cabernet Franc Rosé, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008 Syrah and T.A.T.T. (Tried and True - red blend). Steve's wines have always been on the top of my list. I was happy to see this year that the new vintages of Cabernet Franc Rosé and Riesling were still available as it seems as if I can never get it to them in time. They fly out of the winery. For once my timing wasn't off!

Tertulia Cellars: It's at the other end of town by the foothills and so worth the drive. As you come up the road, the building of Tertulia seems to appear as if it is an oasis. And as the afternoon reached higher temps, it definitely was. Joan and I were greeted by Michelle Aichele, tasting room manager.

Michelle poured for us her Sunday's line-up of: 2010 Viognier, 2010 Syrah du Rosé, Sobra Red Blend, Tempranillo, Malbec and Carmenere. Which one did I love the best? It was the Syrah du Rosé. No wait! It was the Malbec! No wait! It was the Tempranillo! No wait! It was the Carmenere! No wait ... It's tough to decide which one of winemaker, Ryan Raber's wines are my favorite.

Tertulia's signature "circle of friends" is not only a distinctive icon, but they also show it with their warm hospitality. Later, Michelle asked us to join her on the patio overlooking the gorgeous view. We sipped a glass of Syrah du Rosé while enjoying the fresh air, the view of the mountains, vineyards and even saw a few pheasant. It was a wonderful way to end a summer afternoon.

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Fjellene Cellars

A few months ago, a friend sent me an email asking my help to solve a bet. He was told there were over 400 wineries in the Walla Walla Valley and my friend knew this claim was grossly incorrect. According to the Washington Wine Commission, there are just over 700 wineries in Washington State. In Walla Walla, depending on the day and the direction of the wind, there might be anywhere between 105 - 125 wineries in the Valley. One never knows when a new winery in Walla Walla will pop up and when they do, those that are out of the ordinary in their mission statement and of course, quality of their wines will capture my attention.

Fjellene Cellars (Fyel-LAY-Nuh) is one of those new wineries that has captured my attention. Fjellene Cellars was founded by Matthew and Sarah Erlandson in 2008. The winery gets its title from a Norwegian name for "mountains."

Matthew's mission is about planet earth and it is more than just words for him, as he was an outdoor educator and mountain guide across the globe for 13 years. Not only statewide, but internationally, as well. While employed at Northern Arizona University, he took a three month leave to come to Washington State to dabble in wine making. Shall we say the rest is history ... as he immediately went back down to Arizona, gave notice, and ... his first wines were released earlier this year.

The first vintages of Fjellene Cellars were 2007, 2008 and 2009 and produced while he was an assistant at Beresan and Balboa Wineries. Matthew is dedicated to crafting distinct, varietal-specific wines with sustainability in mind. The Erlandson's mission is to create elegant, approachable and food friendly wines that deliver back to the earth. And once again, these statements are more than just words as it shows from the very beginning to the grape pumice and stems reduced to compost by local farmers to the very end with natural cork closures and clean, yet elegant packaging.

Once the attractive bottle is opened, a wine enthusiast will find the wines of Fjellene Cellars are vineyard designated wines that showcase the fruit and terroir of Washington State from as far as Yakima and the Columbia Gorge to local vineyards in Walla Walla. The repertoire of Fjellene Cellar wines include: 2007 North Col Blend (50/50 Cab Franc/Merlot) and a 2007 Malbec. 2008 single varietals of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah and 2008 South Col Blend (Bordeaux-style). 2010 Syrah Rosé and 2010 Sauvignon Blanc.

My personal favorites? 2007 North Col Blend (almost gone at the winery), 2008 Cabernet Franc (sold out), 2010 Syrah Rosé (swoon worthy and first place winner at the 9th Annual Rosé Revival in Seattle held at Ray's Boathouse) and the 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (crisp and so refreshing).

This spring I was fortunate to be seated next to Sarah and Matthew at a local wine dinner. I so enjoyed listening to each side of their story about how Fjellene came to be, as well as their faith and pride in each other. I also knew Matthew was my kind of person during the before dinner "cocktail hour," as he "magically" pulled out from his back coat pocket a bottle of fine French bubbly he brought with and generously poured me a glass.

In turn, later I shared with Matthew my course of corn and morel mushroom salad with foam of foie gras. I have to admit, while I love all vegetables and fungus, I am not a huge fan of liver delicacies. Matthew enjoyed the foie gras more than I ever could and I took great delight watching him relish this fine fare, as he even ran his finger inside and around the petite casserole gathering every last bit of the rich foam. It was this exuberance that reminded me and confirmed the mission of Fjellene's wines; elegant, approachable and food friendly. Not only does Matthew take pleasure with fine food, but there isn't any doubt he brings the same enthusiasm to every bottle of Fjellene wine.

Tuesday, August 09, 2011

A Summer Swooning Wine: Walla Walla Viognier

My first introduction to a domestic Viognier was from Cayuse Vineyards tasting room on Main Street in Walla Walla, several years ago. It was so long ago that Cayuse was actually opened to the public and there were no "lists." I have been spoiled, ever since, but always looking for one or more of the benchmark characterics my olfactory system has set. I will never forget the nose, the flavor on my tongue and - - of course, the moment. The moment was one of those memories that many a wine lover carries with them forever.

Viognier is typically known for it's floral aroma. Often stone fruit, pears, honeysuckle and orange blossoms exude from the glass. While it may be heady with aromas, it's a delicate wine with a hints of honey and soft spices, like nutmeg on the finish. Typically it is meant to be enjoyed young as it can lose its perfume as it ages. It has often been coined as a "swooning wine ... oozing sex and sensuality" - Oz Clarke, wine writer.

In the mid-to-late 19th century there was the historic decline of French vineyards due to phylloxera and with that came the abandonment of the vineyards due to World War I. By 1965, around 30 acres of Viognier vines merely existed in its Northern Rhône homeland appellation of Condrieu, France. Even as late as the mid-1980's, Viognier in France was endangered. Paralleling the growth of Viognier in the rest of the world, especially in the last ten years such as in the United States and Australia, the vines in France have grown dramatically ever since.

Walla Walla has certainly seen their share of growth with this delicate white grape, but two of the earlier Walla Walla producers of Viognier come to mind when I think about this cool summer favorite:

Bergevin Lane - Viognier 2010: It was a challenging year, but an extraordinary year, especially for the whites which brought complexity to this light nectar. Wafts of floral bouquets and hints of exotic spice come from the glass. At first sip there's a little bit of the peach orchard here and a little bit of the apricot orchard there. Little bit of lemon here and a little bit of Asian pear there. And the finish? A little bit of custard here with lots of voluptuous notes of honey all over there. Swoonworthy!

Cougar Crest - Viognier 2008: Typically Viogniers do not require heavy oaking to provide balance, so often use of neutral oak barrels or steel is used. The Viogniers of Cougar Crest are fermented dry without use of oak or even malolactic fermentation. Once again, a Viognier has been created that is so perfumey of orange blossoms and honeysuckle that you'll want to dab a bit behind each ear and pulse centers. A mouthful of white peaches, honeydew and star fruit dances around the mouth. The natural oily characteristics of the Viognier grape coats the palate with rich honey notes.

Swoon and sip these wines by themselves or enjoy with soft cow's milk cheese, chicken, sea food and especially fish prepared with cream and herbs.

Thursday, August 04, 2011

Young Guns Wine Society

Hide the women-folk and children! The Young Guns are coming to town!

Okay, okay - so hiding the women and children is a bit of an exaggeration - - but who are these young men who may be coming to a town near you (and the truth is that many of the "women-folk" won't be hiding much as the handsome Young Guns often draw a lot of attention).

The Young Guns Wine Society (YGWS) is a group of five young winemakers in the Walla Walla Valley. They are dedicated in uniting the next generation of winemakers, especially under the age of 35 years old and from the Northwest. Along their journey, the goal is to also define and showcase the next generation of wine. Each one of the original members of YGWS brings to the group their own unique story of their personal journey into the wine industry.

However, while they may have different backgrounds, they all have one common goal: bringing to the wine industry a young vibrant energy while respecting and honoring traditions.

The YGWS started as an idea in 2010 with Justin Basel of Basel Cellars and Josh McDaniels of Sweet Valley Wines. In 2011 that idea became a reality and was officially formed. Shortly after the launch Cameron Kontos of Kontos Cellars joined followed by Greg Matiko of Skylite Cellars and Ryan Raber of Tertulia Cellars.

The appeal of the YGWS is not just for the young wine lover. Wine lovers of all ages will enjoy learning about and tasting the wines and often the first to experience the YGWS's new releases. And between all five of the winemakers, their list of accolades and awards are many! The YGWS have already had some successful wine dinners and tastings under their belts (or is that under their holster belts?) and more events are being planned. Unlike many traditional winemaker dinners, a dinner featuring the YGWS is an opportunity to dine with five winemakers and to experience an assortment of winemaking styles and varietals.

Meet the Young Guns Wine Society:

Justin Basel, age 26 from Basel Cellars Estate Winery was raised in the Walla Walla wine industry. He got his start at age 11 when his family planted their Estate Vineyards, Pheasant Run. Before taking over as the Head Winemaker with the 2006 vintage Justin worked multiple years as the assistant winemaker and also attended the Enology and Viticulture Program at WWCC under the late Stan Clarke (photo: front left).

Josh McDaniels, age 23 first entered the wine business at the age of 15 when he began volunteering at local wineries. By the time Josh was 18, his father David saw how dedicated Josh was about winemaking and gave him an envelope with $1,000 to start a new winery and shortly after, Sweet Valley Wines became a reality. Josh also attended the Walla Walla Community College Enology and Viticulture program. Besides the winery, Josh also works at Figgins Estates/Leonetti Cellar and manages his own 5 acre vineyard (photo: back left).

Cameron Kontos, age 31 grew up in the Walla Walla Valley in a winemaking household, as his father is one of the owners/winemakers of Fort Walla Walla Cellars. Cameron was the assistant winemaker at Forgeron Cellars for eight years under the tutalage of Marie-Eve Gilla. It was there he was able to learn traditional French techniques for crafting fine wine, barrel selection, and vineyard management. Today Cameron is the winemaker and a partner of Kontos Cellars (photo: front right).

Greg Matiko, age 25, his journey into the wine industry was at the age of 18 working as a helper during crush. At the time he had no interest in wine at all - it was merely a job. However, by the end of his first harvest he knew that he was hooked and his passion for wine, and the industry, has grown from there and continues to grow. Greg worked several harvests at Forgeron Cellars before he joined the team at Skylite Cellars (photo: back right).

Ryan Raber was born and raised in Washington State and his first experience with wine was in his early teens, making wine at home with his mother. In the spring of 2005, Ryan graduated with a degree in Enology and Viticulture at WWCC. Following graduation, he accepted the position as winemaker with Tertulia Cellars. After a brief absence Ryan has returned to Tertulia with the same passion and dedication to making world class wines (not in photo).

For more information about the YGWS events you can visit their website or become a fan on Facebook.

Wednesday, August 03, 2011

Monesia's Song

It is always a such special treat when I am invited to a private tasting with a winemaker at their winery and especially at his or her home. So when winemaker, Josh McDaniels invited me to his house to taste the wines of Sweet Valley and Righteous Wines from Walla Walla, I knew it was going to be a great evening - and it was. With the view of vineyards from Josh's back dining room window, we tasted through the current releases and one of the most memorable - Monesia's Song.

Josh's entry into the wine business was at the age of 15. He began volunteering at local wineries while still balancing high school and athletics. After a few years of winemaking, his father David saw his enthusiasm for the business and handed him an envelope with $1,000 to start a winery. 2005 was a significant year for Josh, as not only was it his senior year of high school, but his new winery Sweet Valley bottled their very first wine.

After high school, Josh would graduate from the Enology and Viticulture Center in Walla Walla, as well as working full-time for longtime mentors, Leonetti Cellar, in addition to his winemaking duties at Sweet Valley. In a continual pursuit to broaden his knowledge and education, Josh received an internship with Paul Hobbs Wines at Vina Cobos Winery in Mendoza, Argentina.

Today, Josh continues to strengthen the wine portfolio at Sweet Valley and Righteous Wines, as well as his work with Leonetti Cellar and the newly-formed Young Guns Wine Society, a group dedicated to defining the next generation of wines and winemakers in the Walla Walla Valley.

If all of this weren't enough, recently Josh became very involved with a new project, Embracing Orphans. This non-profit organization assists in helping orphanages all around the world. Josh's passion for and involvement with Embracing Orphans led him to craft a high-end red wine called, Monesia’s Song.

During the last days of the 2007-2008 winter's school break, local junior-high teacher Carl Robanske had just returned from a visit to Jamaica and bringing back with him were the memories of Blossom Gardens, an orphanage for children from babies to age seven. After his visit, Carl could not forget the 65 children, many with mental and physical disabilities, and unfortunately a limited staff to care for their needs. But most of all, he could not forget Monesia.

It was an afternoon naptime when Carl noticed all of the children were asleep with the exception of one little girl. Monesia was a heartbroken, confused and deeply quiet child and her only form of expression was a single tear that rolled down her soft brown cheek. Carl later discovered she had been at the orphanage for two weeks and since Monesia's arrival she had never spoke a word. Carl spent many hours reading and playing with Monesia to bring her out of her shell. He used stuffed animals to carry on conversations with Monesia and eventually she laughed after being tossed in the air over and over again. As Carl embraced the small girl she unexpectedly sang to him - in a very soft tiny voice,

"How often we forget that we are loved."

Josh was inspired by this story and collaborated with Carl in an effort to raise funds to improve the quality of life for the orphaned children of Jamaica. They created a wine label that shares this reminder of the need for love with a portrait of Monesia in a bright blue dress.

"Monesia's Song" was released in the spring of 2011 and is a fine Bordeaux-style red blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Petit Verdot, and 5% Merlot; sourced from some of the finest Walla Walla Valley vineyards in Washington State. The nose wafts of dark stone fruit, cigar box, black pepper and mocha. The palate has flavors of plums, dark Bing cherries and creamy, yet tangy, Rainier cherries and finishes with tones of espresso. Definitely a wine I would let rest for a few months. Only 75 cases produced.

When purchased, 30% of the cost is a financial gift to Embracing Orphans. Please contact Josh for more information at: Josh@SweetValleyWines.com

Tuesday, August 02, 2011

Keeping Wine Budgets in the Black: Blacksmith Wines

Now days when discussions of the US debt ceiling have been looming above us, there's no reason why your wine cellar coffers have to take on a deficit. Blacksmith is one of those wine labels that all parties can agree upon, unless of course you truly are an invited member of a high-tea party with extended pinkie and beverage of choice is a cuppa Earl Grey or Oolong with two lumps and a spot o' cream.

Forgeron Cellars, located in Walla Walla, is located in the site of a former blacksmith shop. The name, Forgeron is a French word for "blacksmith" and also refers to artisans who craft and build with their hands. Marie-Eve Gilla, part owner and winemaker of Forgeron Cellars has been bringing to the winery her complex, yet food friendly wines since 2001. She not only sources the fruit locally, but also chooses vineyards from the entire Columbia Valley region for their maturity and flavors.

Looking to expand, Marie-Eve and her team released a new wine label in November 2010 appropriately named "Blacksmith." This line-up of wines, designed for retail at wine shops and fine restaurants, contains single varietals showcasing each grape's characteristics at an exceptional price. Blacksmith will typically not be available at the winery, but once again, Marie-Eve has blacksmithed these grapes into the highest quality wines possible. In November the first release was a 2008 Syrah and a 2009 Pinot Noir. Both priced under $15 each. In fact, the 2008 Syrah was recently awarded a double gold from the 2011 Seattle Wine Awards in June.

Unforuntately the Syrah and Pinot Noir from Blacksmith is now just a memory in many of the wine shops racks and restaurant's menus, however not all is lost as Blacksmith Chardonnay - 2010 and Blacksmith Merlot - 2008 have just been released. Both priced around $15.00.

Blacksmith Chardonnay - 2010: It is this Walla Walla wine lover/blogger's opinion that Marie-Eve Gilla set a benchmark for Washington State Chardonnays. While we were drinking California's version of over-oaked and over-buttery chardonnays that were masking the fruit and terroir, Marie was earning her masters degree in enology and viticulture at the University of Dijon and apprenticing at various Burgundian wineries and vineyards. With the Blacksmith Chardonnay, Marie-Eve has given us an opportunity to sample her talents with the Chardonnay grape at an affordable price (note: her Forgeron Chardonnay is one of her most popular wines amongst a "red sea" of Forgeron's red wine offerings).

Like the Forgeron Chardonnay, Marie has given the Blacksmith a gentle touch by using 67% used oak. It’s a classic! Notes of Asian pears and honeysuckle greet the nose setting the stage for a palate of pineapple, stone fruit with hints of citrus. A porch sipper or paired with casual dining of chicken salad sandwiches, chilled prawns and fresh fruit salsas.

Blacksmith Merlot - 2008: A deep inhale from the wine glass bowl is going to tell you this Merlot is from Washington State. Not satisfied with the ordinary, Marie-Eve added 12.5% each of Zinfandel and Petit Verdot and included sources from Rattlesnake Hills, Horse Heaven Hills, Yakima Valley and Walla Walla for complexity.

Once again the majority of oak was used at 70%, while still leaving reminders of cigar box and cedar on the nose. The palate screams Washington State Merlot with those flavors of dark chocolate covered cherries, fig cookies and finishing with brown sugar, spice and pepper. Priced just right for casual sipping but exceptional enough to be used in your favorite recipes such as Julia Child's classic Boeuf Bourgignon or a real Washington state favorite of a Merlot redux drizzled over our native salmon - - and of course, affordable enough to procure an extra bottle to pair with the meal.

I will be anxious to see future Blacksmith releases. Sante!

Saturday, July 30, 2011

Days of Wine and Roses

Some of my readers may not know that I am also a regular contributor to Walla Walla Lifestyles, a magazine about the valley's people, wine and food. It is distributed 11 times a year through subscription with the Walla Walla Union Bulletin. The following article is from the July 2011 issue.

The title sounds so romantic, right? Unfortunately, it comes from a melancholy black-and-white movie from 1962 about an alcoholic man who falls in love with a young woman. She, however, unlike him, prefers chocolate over alcohol. Of course, they get married. He assists her in her own upcoming addiction to alcohol so they can share his addiction. And, wouldn’t you know, he beats his addiction, she doesn’t, and he leaves her. The End.

The movie’s title is an odd one, because the alcoholic protagonists don’t even drink any wine. Liquor, such as gin and vodka, is more to their liking.

I have my own “Days of Wine and Roses,” but they are nothing like the movie. My days of wine and roses are spent out on my back deck during the summer. It’s a quiet place where I can sit in one of two rocking chairs I purchased during a visit to Tennessee. These oak chairs were handcrafted by a family who has been making rockers for 150 years.

Between the two chairs is an old Hungarian oak wine barrel. On the head of the barrel, I have placed a large, round, glass top. It makes the perfect prop for my afternoon glass of iced tea, evening glass of wine and, often, my morning cup of coffee.

On the deck is an assortment of pottery and antique cement pots that are usually filled with summer annuals and herbs. There’s a birdhouse that has actually housed a few nests, and a delicate-sounding wind chime.

The best part is below the deck. It’s framed with a colored assortment of rose bushes and the fragrance of the roses wafts up to the deck.

Unfortunately, an early freeze struck last November, and this spring when the roses began showing some bud break, we received another cold snap. Out of my 18 rose bushes, seven were given over to merciless Jack Frost​.

As I sat in my outdoor rocking chair, mourning my roses and looking at the lifeless, thorny gray sticks poking out of the ground, it suddenly became overwhelming to me. Everything that week became overwhelming from simple chores like rinsing a cereal bowl to reading a sentence and trying to make sense of it.

It dawned on me that I hadn’t taken a vacation in a couple of years. The last few years of my life had met with some losses and, at the same time, some intense excitement and life-changing experiences. I had to get away!

And I did, and started writing these sentences about wine and roses in a cabin tucked away in the mountains of Oregon. It wasn’t too far from civilization, as there were other cabins close by, but they were also filled with other adults who, I imagine, were looking for the same thing I was looking for: peace and solace from nature.

There was no cell service, but plenty of fresh mountain air and a few friendly deer. Most of all, it was quiet. The noisiest thing around me was the humming refrigerator in the cabin’s kitchen and the occasional sigh from my patient little dog, Chloe.

This time made me reflect on people who had made a difference to me in the last 14 years of my life and, in fact, had even changed the path of my life. Of course, I also thought of my roses — or the lack of them.

I started thinking about my former wine instructor, the late Stan Clarke, and how he made such a difference in my life. I remember a classroom discussion about vineyards, whether they were in Washington, California or even in Europe, and how there would sometimes be beautiful rose bushes planted at the end of vineyard rows. Stan pointed out that the roses were there for more than just aesthetic reasons — roses and grapevines are susceptible to the same diseases.

Vineyard owners in Bordeaux discovered centuries ago that roses and grapevines have a lot in common. Roses act as beautiful and fragrant sentinels for the grapevines as they can display early warning signs of powdery mildew, a fungal disease that affects the growth of fruit and causes the vines to rot eventually. Roses are more sensitive than grapevines, so, if a vigneron notices his roses have this fungus, he knows it is time to treat the vines to prevent them from getting the same disease. Roses are also homes to beneficial insects such as ladybugs that feast on aphids and other undesirable insects.

Later, Stan, with his practical and rather sarcastic wit, pointed out, “Why bother with the roses, when we could just look at the grapevine itself and tell the symptoms?”

Not just the roses told the story of the November freeze and the cold spring — so did acres of grapevines. The Walla Walla Valley experienced some of the coldest temperatures around the state, and many of the lower-valley vineyards suffered the most, sustaining damages of about 20 percent, with some grape varietals being damaged as much as 100 percent. Still, as they often are, winemakers are feeling optimistic about the 2011 vintage.

After four days of cabin-living, I came home feeling rested. I was able to jot down few words during my stay, but I read through a magazine and a book and was able to comprehend all of the words.

I went out to my deck and peered down at my slow-blooming roses and noticed three of the seven bushes I had declared dead were showing signs of green, and young, new, red leaves were gloriously popping up from the earth. The sun was shining and birds were singing — once again, I would have my days of wine and roses.

Thursday, July 21, 2011

Beguiled and Bedazzled! Juliette's Dazzle

A few months ago, Gilles Nicault, general winemaker for Long Shadows Winery asked me, "Do you remember Dazzle? It's coming back."

Oh my yes, how I remembered "Dazzle." Dazzle was a project of Long Shadow's back in 2003, shortly after they first opened their doors. It was a project that was never released - - at least not through Long Shadow's. Due to labeling issues Dazzle, a brilliant red syrah rosé packaged in a clear bowling pin shaped bottle with a gold foil-like label, was scrapped for Long Shadows. I remember Gilles gifting me a few bottles of Dazzle with the original label (I think I may still have one tucked away).

Fortunately, the orphan bottles of Dazzle were kept in "the family." Marie-Eve Gilla, winemaker and partner of Forgeron Cellars is also married to Gilles. Forgeron was able to purchase the wine and relabel it appropriately by COLA (Certificate of Label Approval). At the time (seven years ago) it was a huge undertaking to sell a rosé to a population of domestic wine drinkers who were still under the mind-set that it was going to be comparable to a "California Blush." I know this first-hand as I was one of the sales staff at Forgeron Cellars at the time. The tough part was getting the public to try it. Once they did - - sold ! My key sales words? "French-style" "Made by a French winemaker" and "Scrap the Pinot Noir. Get bold and pair it with your Thanksgiving turkey." Needless to say the pretty dark pink liquid "flew" out the doors.

Winemaker Gilles Nicault has a gift for making rosé. It would make perfect sense when you consider he gathered some of his winemaking craft in vineyards and wineries of Provence. Provence, the site of France's oldest vineyards, is the only place in the world that really specializes in rosé. Rosé has been the focus of Provence winemaking for centuries ever since the Greeks brought wine to the area in 600 BC, the people of Provence have been perfecting the art of dry rosé production.

I can remember back when Gilles first came to the valley and was a winemaker at Woodward Canyon Winery back in the late 1990's. Every opportunity I could get I would rush to Woodward Canyon's Spring Release, especially if I knew they had just released a rosé.

Yes, Dazzle is back. "Juliette's Dazzle" is a special project of Allen Shoup, CEO and founder of Long Shadows Winery and named the wine after his 11-year old granddaughter, Julia. You won't find this rosé at the winery, either. It was produced especially for wine shops and restaurants under the "Dolan & Weiss" label, which also has a family connection.

This clear red rosé is produced from Pinot Gris, a grayish pink grape which is classified as "white." The pinot gris was lightly mascerated and fermented like a red wine on its skins, giving the wine it's sole source of color as in traditional Provence rosés. However, Gilles added 3% sangiovese to add more fruitiness and to enhance the vibrant color. This luxurious liquid has not touched a hint of oak.

This is truly an elegant "porch sipping" wine for those lazy afternoons or cool summer evenings. There is 1.4% residual sugar, which has also given the wine a natural "spritz" making it fresh and bright with every sip. There are enough crisp acids in the wine, like a riesling, to keep the natural fruit sugars balanced without being cloying.

The packaging is beautiful and would make a wonderful wine for entertaining during these summer months. Also, "Scrap the Pinot Noir. Get bold and pair it with your Thanksgiving turkey," that is if you can keep it around that long. Juliette's Dazzle would compliment fruit salads, lemon bars, fruit pies, rich and creamy cheeses, Asian-influenced dishes, as well as delicate chicken and seafood dishes.

Also keep the bottle and use it as a summertime patio vase for your posies and roses from the garden. Sante!

Friday, July 15, 2011

L’Ecole Nº 41 Chenin Blanc - 2010

Chenin Blanc is a white grape with origins from the Loire Valley of France. It is known for it's high acidity and because of the acidity, it is the very reason why I think it makes such a perfect wine for summer and especially paired with foods year 'round.

Chenin Blanc is not a wine that you see a lot of around the state of Washington, however there has been one winery in the state who has been consistent with producing this lovely light and refreshing wine from almost the day they first opened their doors.

L’Ecole Nº 41 has produced this old vine, "Vouvray" style (more "off-dry") Chenin Blanc since 1987. Jean Ferguson, L’Ecole Nº 41’s founder and winemaker, loved this wine and crafted her version of Vouvray through cold fermentation to enhance the fruity and floral esters. Not only does L'Ecole have a long history in Washington with Chenin Blanc, but the grapes they source for their Chenin Blanc also has a history as the Willard Family Farms of Rattle Snake Hills AVA near Prosser and the Phil Church Vineyard of the Yakima Valley AVA near Sunnyside, were both planted in 1979.

To describe sipping on the 2010 L’Ecole Nº 41 Chenin Blanc, think thirst-quenching. Kind of like a "adult" lemonade with floral notes. The acids in this wine are vibrant along with flavors of orchard fruit such as crisp Granny Smith apples and fresh picked apricots. Notes of sweet and mild ruby red grapefruit leaves a pucker here and there while still leaving a very light sweet finish, never cloying, in your mouth. And the nose is something you would like to dab behind your ear with influences of the exotic such as Asian pear, honeysuckle and orange blossoms.

It's truly a wine to quench your thirst during these warm summer days and to continue sipping in the cool evenings paired with food such as with spicy Thai, seafood fajitas, Jerk chicken and summer salads, including fresh fruit salads. Sante!

Thursday, June 30, 2011

Branded for Quality and Affordability: Redd Brand

During these changing economic times, many a wine lover is thinking differently about the way they are buying their wines. They are not forsaking the grape, or even the best of the grape, as what a better way to calm our nerves and keep our heart healthy than with a soothing glass of great wine. However, many of us are not cracking open a $35 - $50 bottle of wine every night and looking for the more affordable, but still just as tasty, wines.

One thing in favor for us wine lovers, we are discovering more and more top-notch wineries who are finding ways to get us through this double-dip recession. One of the ways is to produce a "second" label. These "second" label wines are typically more affordable, while not forsaking quality. These are often "leftovers" where the harvest may have produced a percentage of extra barrels of quality wines, but more than what the winery required to achieve the perfect balance in their high-end blends or limited single variety production. Instead of selling the extra "juice" to another winery or negociants, many wineries are now using these wines as a second label that are not sold in the wineries, but only sold through wine shops and restaurants.

Enters "Redd Brand" to save the day - - and our pocketbooks and our discerning palate! Produced by Tertulia Cellars, Redd Brand is a blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 5% Carmenere, 4% Petit Verdot, & 2% Cabernet Franc. This 2008 vintage was sourced from Pepper Bridge, Blue Mountain, Lonesome Spring Ranch and Phinny Hill Vineyards. It is dark and opulent! The nose is smoky, meaty and with dark stoned fruit. The palate is full bodied with plums and dark cherries drenching the mouth. While this is branded as a second label, with bright and well-integrated acids, this wine will easily age well over the next ten years. But why? I say, drink it now and always.

The release on this hearty red couldn't be a perfect timing with summer BBQ's on the calendar. Anything on the grill with a western flair is going to pair well with Redd Brand. I am thinking beef 'n' veggie shish-ka-bobs, burgers, ribs, flatbreads and fresh picked wild berry cobblers. Even the attractive red paisley label is reminiscent of a cowboy 'kerchief and so appropriate as Redd Brand was named after a rancher by the name of Bill Redd. He was founder of the Red Meadow Bar in Helena, Montana. Cowboys and ranch hands gathered at this bar after a long day of hard and dusty labor to "wet their whistle." YEE-HAW!

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Elusive, Yet Devoted: Dowsett Family Wines

Chris Dowsett just didn't wake up one morning and decided to produce Gewürztraminer. This aromatic white wine grape, with Germanic origins, is in his blood.

His path to winemaking all started when he produced his first ten gallons of Gewürztraminer in junior high school. Later, he would put in a few years at Canoe Ridge Vineyard/Winery in Walla Walla and assisted with their Columbia Valley Gewürztraminer. While winemaking at the former winery, Lattitude 46, Chris also produced a dry barrel fermented Gewürztraminer under the Lattitude 46 label. He was at this Touchet, Washington winery until 2007 when he would become winemaker for Artifex Wine Company in Walla Walla. It was there, at this world-class custom crush facility, that Dowsett Family Wines was conceived with its first 300 cases of wine. Chris has since moved on from Artifex, but when Chris isn't producing his own wines, he is also assistant winemaker for Buty Winery.

Dowsett Family Winery is a small production winery with a little over 300 cases a year (around 173 cases of Gewürztraminer and 200 cases of the red Rhone-style blend, "Devotion"), which makes these much sought-after wines rather elusive.

Dowsett Family Gewürztraminer - 2010
: From the Celilo Vineyard at Columbia Gorge. This vineyard was planted in 1982 and is dry-farmed. If you want to know what a dry Gewürztraminer should taste like, this wine is a stunning example. This aromatic grape shows floral notes of a rose garden and the palate is expressive of white peaches and other stone fruit. While this is a dry white, it is very fruit forward which leaves an impression otherwise. Chilled just right, this light white wine is cool and crisp and the use of neutral oak leaves a round mouthfeel. Yeah, you want this wine for those cool summer evenings ahead of us, but it is also food friendly. Think spicy Thai or light seafood salads.

Dowsett Family Devotion - 2008: Like the back label of the wine bottle says: "Three varieties, one wine." This rich and full Rhone-style red is a blend of 41% Syrah from Morrison Lane Vineyard at Walla Walla Valley AVA, 30% Mourvedre from Kiona Heart of the Hill at Red Mountain AVA, and 29% Grenache from Destiny Ridge at Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The nose is smoky and smells of black and blue berries. If you could describe what the words, "deep and dark" taste like, then Devotion tastes like these two adjectives. Think a mouth full of dark chocolate covered cherries with a dash of white pepper in the finish. A spicy BBQ and grilled meats and vegetables is on the agenda for this red wine.

If you don't believe that Gewürztraminer isn't a big part of Chris Dowsett's life, ask him about his belt buckle. And the devotion to his wine is shown by his work gloves as they are marked "D E V O" on one hand and "T I O N" on the other.

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

What Did Bill Drink?

Some of my readers may not know that I am also a regular contributor to Walla Walla Lifestyles, a magazine about the valley's people, wine and food. In fact, some of you may not know about the magazine at all. It is distributed 11 times a year through subscription with the Walla Walla Union Bulletin. The following article is from the June 2011 issue.

The announcement of the 120-year-old gas plant transformation into the new Power House Theatre has been exciting news for our citizens, local businesses, as well as visitors to Walla Walla.

The new theatre will be filled with the sights and sounds of Shakespeare. With all of the hustle and bustle of the remodel and the events and plays planned for the new theatre, we wonder: “What was the favored drink poured at the Blackfriars Theatre in London? What did Bill drink?”

History tells us that wine has been a staple of European diets for centuries and, of course, it was a staple during the life and times of William Shakespeare. The citizens of Shakespeare’s era not only enjoyed sipping wine, but they had started to look at it as more than just a refreshment and actually as a substitute for drinking water. The upper class enjoyed it regularly and would soon come to discuss the virtues and romance of wine.

However, the grapes from England were not satisfactory for winemaking, so Elizabethan oenophiles imported wines from other parts of Europe, such as France and Spain.

“Sherris-sack,” also known as “sack,” from Spain was becoming an important wine for the Elizabethans. “Sack” was an old wine term for aged white wine that had been fortified with brandy. We are familiar with that amber-colored wine, which is now known as sherry. Today there is also a popular mainstream label of sherry that has been around since the late 1800s known as “Dry Sack.”

William Shakespeare declared his love for sherry through his plump fictional character Sir John Falstaff, who was famously featured in “Henry IV, Part 2,” announcing:

“If I had a thousand sons, the first humane principle I would teach them should be, to forswear thin potations and to addict themselves to sack.”

During the time of Shakespeare, there were at least 100 ale and beer breweries in London. It is believed that “Macbeth” was first performed at a theatre north of London around the year 1605, and at the same time and in the same area of London the town council agreed to restrict the number of brewers as a way to halt the continuing rise in the price of fuel wood.

So, if you think the ongoing battle over gas prices is something new, it might be useful to remember that even back then there were rises in fuel prices

It is said that, of the two fermented malt drinks, Shakespeare enjoyed ale more than the hopped-up beer. Shakespeare was born and raised in rural Stratford, England, and was no fan of these new, citified beers. He was a country boy, after all, and was raised on ale as his father was the mayor and the official ale taster in Stratford. The job of official ale taster was an important and well-respected one, for even the queen drank this brew.

I think Shakespeare possibly used Hamlet to express his disdain for the hoppy liquid. Hamlet contemplates death and asks his companion, “To what base uses we may return, Horatio! Why may not imagination trace the noble dust of Alexander till he find it stopping a bunghole?”

In other words: In the phrase “ashes to ashes, dust to dust,” (we) we return to earth as dust, and earth is used to make clay, clay was used to make bungs, and bungs are used as beer-barrel stoppers.

And last but not least, there was mead, the ancestor of all fermented drinks being poured around the tables of the Elizabethans. Also known as “honey wine,” mead is the oldest alcoholic beverage known to man and is simply the result of a fermentation of water, yeast and honey, with maybe a few spices and herbs tossed in. There were many variants added depending on where the mead was produced in countries and cultures around the world.

Mead can also be fermented with additives such as apples, maple syrup, currents, berries, rosehips and even chili peppers.

Shakespeare brings up metheglin, (known as “spiced mead”) in his plays “Love’s Labor’s Lost” and “The Merry Wives of Windsor.”

Whether it be ale, beer, sherry or wine, these beverages are nothing new to our century and have been produced and consumed since man first discovered that these sugar solutions of different origins, if left standing would ferment naturally and spontaneously. Man also discovered that not only was the beverage rather tasty, but fermentation was a way of preserving liquids — a useful discovery since he didn’t have a fancy stainless steel, French double-door refrigerator to plug into his cave or manger.

One thing we can be certain of, as the fans of Shakespeare gather in Walla Walla to enjoy his works at the new Powerhouse Theatre, they will never have to utter nor will we ever hear those five little words, other than those spoken on stage, “Have we no wine here?”

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Sleight of Hand Cellars - Spellbinder Red

After spending all day talking about wine and pouring wine, believe it or not there are days the last thing you want in the evenings is to think about the wine you are drinking. Okay, so all you want is to get off of your feet and relax. You want to relax with a good solid glass of wine - a solid glass that has all of the components you enjoy in a glass of hearty red wine.

I suppose I wasn't really thinking about the wine I was going to have that evening. However, I decided to "live on the edge" and blindly reached into a case of mixed wines, that I had yet to take the time to put away, and whatever wine I picked out from the case would be the wine of the evening. I reached in and pulled out the Sleight of Hand Cellars Spellbinder Red - 2009. I actually did think about the wine at the time of procuring it, as I won a door prize at a local fundraiser and I got to pick my own prize of many to choose from and the pack of two Sleight of Hand Cellars red wines with their "magical" labels reached out to me and screamed, "Pick me!"

It was almost a relief to see that the bottle had a screw top. I didn't have to take the time to screw with a cork and I knew my glass of wine was going to be without TCA. I could also safely screw the cap on without a fuss. Like I pointed out earlier - all I wanted was a glass of wine that I didn't have to think about - - and damn it, wouldn't you know, with first taste I started pondering this lovely blend.

The 2009 Spellbinder is a harmonious blend of 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc, 10% Sangiovese, and 9% Syrah. The smell of espresso greeted my nose. The wine was full with notes of chocolate covered cherries with a hint of raspberries that completed it with just a bit of acid. A hint of spice made itself known, but without taking over the mellow fruit. The fruit was sourced from several vineyards in the Walla Walla, Red Mountain, Yakima, and Horse Heaven AVA’s. Lots of different terroir going on.

This is a great and affordable everyday sipping wine and I knew I needed a second glass of Sleight of Hand Spellbinder to go with the dinner I had been braising all day in the LeCreuset Dutch Oven (or is that "French Oven?") - a beef roast browned and simmered slowly with lots of onions, later shredded and with a brown sugary BBQ sauce added. This beefy and spicy goodness was served on top of an onion roll. I could not have blindly picked a better wine to sip and to pair with dinner, if I had reached into the case of wine with purpose.

Friday, April 22, 2011

Basel Cellars: The Earth Series Volume Two - 2008

In 2007 the families of Basel Cellars introduced a new label, The Earth Series Volume One. It was a blend of Merlot, Carmenere, Malbec and Petit Verdot. To celebrate Earth Day today, it is very fitting to give a mention to their new release of The Earth Series Volume Two - 2008.

Today is a reminder how our human contaminants are introduced into the environment everyday causing instability, harm and discomfort to our Earth. Basel Cellars have been making steps forward in protecting the planet by recycling all bottles on their premises, including utilizing all recycled shipping and packing supplies. Most importantly, as of 2009 the estate vineyards of Basel Cellars became completely sustainable.

Some of the proceeds from Basel Cellars Earth Series wines will be donated to organizations that share their philosophy of healthy communities, as well as protecting our farmlands, forests and our shorelines for today and for our future generations.

The Earth Series Volume Two - 2008 is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Malbec. It's a wine with robust aromas of moist earth, smoke and cherries. Flavors of berries, cherries and milk chocolate leave a silky mouth feel. It's complex making you want to sip and savor every drop. Definitely a wine to be enjoyed with various foods - from appetizers to a dessert of chocolate. This red blend is rich in flavor, but it won't put a dent in the pocketbook at $18 a bottle. Definitely a wine that would make Mother Earth proud.

Thursday, April 21, 2011

Feast Walla Walla 2011

This is always a great venue and the magic happens on First Avenue downtown Walla Walla at Main Street. The gigantic white tent begins to take shape Friday evening and by Saturday morning, it can pack up to 600 people and several food and wine purveyors. The excitement begins at the tent entrance when guests receive an etched wine glass commemorating the event, a souvenir plate to hold the "feast" from local food vendors and 10 tokens to be used towards food and wine. Art is on view, as well as live music in the background. Once inside the tent, with chandeliers hanging from the top, you tend to forget that you are in the middle of a street as you discover the smells and sights awaiting you for the afternoon.


Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Uptown with Charles Smith Wines

It may have been a special weekend for the ever-popular, yet elusive "Rhone-style" Walla Walla wine located near the WA/OR border. However, it was also a very special weekend for a winemaker who is somewhat elusive in person, but you can be sure he'll greet you on billboards as you enter and leave the Walla Walla Valley with his likeness in black and white profiling his signature locks while looming over traffic.

It was a treat for me, as well as for many wine lovers to enter the new uptown Walla Walla tasting room on Spokane Street and not only see the "man" himself generously pouring his wines and visiting with his guests as if they were long-time friends, but it was also a delight to visit with the "Mrs." - the ever-so-charming Ginevra Casa Smith. I became acquainted with Ginevra last year and I always look forward to seeing her.

I tasted through the "Kung Fu Girl" Riesling, "Eve" Chardonnay, "The Velvet Devil" Merlot, "Boom Boom" Syrah and "Chateau Smith" Cabernet Sauvignon. The line-up of wines were generous in flavors and affordable in prices. The aromatic "Kung Fu Girl" Riesling and a spicy Kung Pao chicken are going to be match-worthy. The "Eve" Chardonnay is going to be on my porch this summer. It's like taking a bite of a juicy Delicious apple. I really took to "The Velvet Devil" Merlot. It was pure velvet on the tongue with it's dark cherry and milk chocolate mouth feel - - SMOOTH.

The building that holds the wines of FOOD & WINE Magazine’s 2009 WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR is not new, by no means. Instead of constructing a new building, Charles chose to invest in the city by investing in an old building. He transformed a former 5,000-square-foot garage into a airy and contemporary tasting room and offices, while keeping the integrity of the old vintage design and materials. Not only will the room; with the brick walls, high rafters and skylights; serve as a tasting room, but everything in the room is almost mobile. The broad wooden tasting room bar is complete with wheels so it can be transported to another space when Charles hosts special events. But don't let me go on and on about this great addition to Walla Walla's uptown, see for yourself.

Wednesday, March 23, 2011

Move Over Anthony Bourdain!

The Wild Walla Walla Wine Woman was recently given a mention on the Travel Channel website. Be sure to check out the complete article, "Pacific NW Wine Experiences," about the great wine country of the Northwest, including Columbia Gorge and Oregon's Willamette Valley to name a few.

Gourmand's Tour of Walla Walla - The Walla Walla Valley, which extends from Washington into a corner of Oregon, has the largest concentration of wineries in the state with 90 options to choose from. Get a preview of this region's wines from the Wild Walla Walla Wine Woman, a local woman who makes recommendations on the area's oldest wine blog ...

Monday, February 14, 2011

Good For the Heart: Bergevin Lane She-Devil Syrah - 2007

This morning I've been pondering what Walla Walla wine would be perfect to blog about this Valentine's Day. I kept tickling through my mental notes about all of the wines I have recently tasted. I wanted to blog about a wine, that not only had an alluring and romantic name, but a wine that was red, feminine, and was so fine it didn't need to be paired with food.

Syrah is a red wine I typically do not reach out to for my daily "heart medicine." It's not that I don't enjoy Syrah, I just usually prefer it paired with food because of its intense smokiness and spicy qualities - - until I tasted Bergevin Lane She-Devil Syrah - 2007. This dark inky wine doesn't need food to tame it. She-Devil has all of the character of Syrah with it's smoke and spice, but like its name, it is smooth and elegant, yet still beguiling. Bergevin Lane She-Devil will demand all of your attention, so food just gets in the way (unless of course, it is a piece of chocolate).

The 2007 vintage was a cooler year than the previous and over all the fewer heat units brought about wines that were more elegant, yet with fresher characteristics. 73% Stone Tree Vineyard at Wahluke Slope and 27% Francisca’s Vineyard in Walla Walla brought to this dark red a concentrated wine with structure and layers. This 100% Syrah brings a velvet mouth feel with dominant juicy ripe berry flavors and finishes with cocoa and espresso. Tannins are present at the end reminding you that She-Devil has a lot of potential to still be tamed.

Bergevin Lane has always been known, and in fact one of the leaders in the valley, for their Syrah. Something tells me that She-Devil is a wine that will be given plenty of attention, will spin out of control and magically disappear out the BLV door.

Wednesday, February 09, 2011

Sinclair Estate Vineyards: To Be Remembered ...

When you first enter Sinclair Estate Vineyards tasting room, located on Main Street in Walla Walla, you are quite taken aback. You might just take another look through the large display windows as a reminder you left behind traffic outside when you first entered through the doors and that you are not in a manor or chateau overlooking rolling green slopes of old vines. Colored walls of slate blue and Tuscan yellow wrap around you and the decor is one of Old World. Large gold gilded frames envelope colorful paintings, elaborate and ornate carved Victorian and European furnishings, a grand piano and larger-than-life sculptures are all about. A true feast for the eyes and in fact a feast all of the senses especially when it comes to the wine.

Sinclair Estate Vineyards is a family owned boutique winery producing mostly French-influenced varietal wines. They are small lots using, like their tasting room style, old world style techniques. Amy Alvarez-Wampfler is the winemaker for this under 500 case production winery. For now the wines are produced at Dunham Cellars by Amy (her husband is Dunham Cellars winemaker, Dan Wampfler). Amy has six years behind her in the wine industry which three of those years have been in winemaking. She finds that the balance of power and structure gives an emphasis to elegant, yet very food-friendly wines.

Sinclair Estate Vineyards Chardonnay - 2009: Amongst those notes of tropical aromas, a bit of roasted marshmallow snuck up on me. A mid-palate of fresh stone fruit with a lingering finish of creme soda. A very food friendly wine or to be enjoyed as a chilled porch sipper.

Sinclair Estate Vineyards Sangiovese - 2008: Also making a statement as a food friendly wine. With the addition of Cabernet, this red spicy wine presents itself as a "Super Tuscan." The perceived sweetness in the mid-palate and lingering finish of tart cherries and peppery finish, will hold up to tomato sauce and smoked meats.

Sinclair Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - 2007: A powerful red wine with a feminine touch. The Walla Walla fruit in this deep red wine shows off with its smoky and earthy aromas. Notes of dark cocoa and creme de cassis up front lead to a supple and full-bodied wine. A wine that is food friendly to the extreme: roasted meats to chocolate dessert.

Sinclair Estate Vineyards Merlot - 2008: Chocolate-covered cherries and dark ripe plums reminds you this is a Merlot made in Washington State. At first sip a bit of sweetness that leads to a bit of the ol' cigar box and finishes to a long and smooth finish. Another versatile food friendly wine from a bacon burger topped with Bleu cheese to grilled salmon with a Merlot redux sauce.

From the tasting room to the wine in a glass, like the Sinclair Estate Vineyards motto says, "A boutique wine encounter to be remembered ..."

Tuesday, February 08, 2011

Otis Kenyon Walla Walla Cabernet Sauvignon - 2006

It's been no secret that my go-to-wine is Cabernet Sauvignon, especially a Cabernet from the Walla Walla Valley. Like several wineries in the area, Otis Kenyon's label and story is based on family and their history here in the Walla Walla Valley. Unfortunately, Otis Kenyon's story is a bitter-sweet one filled with tragedy but now the new chapter for the Kenyon Family finally has their happy ending.

The happy ending also happens to be their 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon from the Walla Walla Valley. But let's start at the beginning.

I believe in sharing good bottles of wine with friends. Nothing is better than to pop a cork and pour a good bottle of wine around the room while everyone ponders the colors, the smells and even the atmosphere of the room - the whole experience. I had experienced the Otis Kenyon wines before, so the greedy devil on my shoulder told me not to share the wine as I should have it all to myself. However, it was the angel on the other shoulder that reminded me that good wines are meant to be shared with friends - - and that is exactly what I did when I accepted a dinner invite from my neighbors. (Who later that evening opened a 2002 Leonetti Cellar Merlot to be paired with Steak Oscar topped with asparagus and a tarragon bearnaise with a side of delicate stacked rounds of potatoes gratin. But that's another story ...)

It seems to me that Otis Kenyon releases their wines at later dates instead of releasing a wine that has only had a few years in the bottle, as they just had released the 100% Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 this early summer (Vineyards used: Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge, and Windy Ridge). The wine had time to, of course, potentially improve, rest and meld leaving a dark deep plum color that was rich in aromas. The more we swirled, the nose came alive with notes of blackberry tea, smoke and dark earth. Slow sips brought forth an abundance of dark cocoa, over-ripe plums, brambleberries and just a hint of spice - - like cloves. It was well balanced and we noticed the presence of oak, but it wasn't obtrusive. Later hints of anise and herbs came through at the finish. And like a good story, the wine left us with a happy ending from the first aroma to the last sip.

We took the almost-empty bottle of Otis Kenyon Cabernet Sauvignon to the table and finished it before the dinner wine was opened. I was happy and thankful for such a nice evening of good friends, good food and of course, good wine. I was happy I was able to share a lovely bottle of wine with my friends, but darn it if that greedy little devil on my shoulder later left me wishing I would have had the whole bottle all to myself. Cheers!
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